A trip to Avudayarkoil near Aranthangi in Pudukottai district was a long pending one.
Many times planned to visit, Gaja cyclone and its after effects put it off.
Secondly whether it has to be a one day trip or overnight stay at Pudukottai or Trichy was another deciding factor.
Meanwhile informed friends about the visit, and last minute there were reasons from them for not joining, nevertheless I was determined to visit the temple to know its grandeur sculptures and the famed roof tile made of stone.
All things packed and it was decided as an one day trip.
On 16th June 2019 started from Home Chromepet by 7.50 am towards Avudaiyarkoil. First halt was customary Eraniamman temple at Vandalur, anytime i visit most of the time it will be screened for pooja. Offered prayer and started.
As usual till Chengalpet toll it was usual traffic, 8.20 am reached Paranur, Fastag worked and moved ahead. 9 am Athur toll reached, at Tindivanam HP got the tank filled up, similarly Vikravandi, Sengurichi, Thirumandurai were crossed without much held up.
In the hurry missed our chakra milk parlour, our usual pit stop, Samayapuram toll crossed by 11.50 and entering in the TN45 zone, where i dread to cross, as usual had its own elements of recklessness, which are a regular feature but didn't lose cool. Crossed Kollidam and decided to visit the famous Michael's Ice cream shop at Thiruvanaikaval, reached 12 pm at the shop ordered vanilla, pista, Jelly, Milkshake and had to heart's content. Came out and thought of entering in to Thiruvanaika temple but as it was 12 noon thought temple must have closed, Bananas were looking too good, the golden yellow Rasthali was so inviting took a dozenfor 50 rs, shopkeeper told it is farm fresh and will taste good, as it looked like bit unripe, asked the shopkeeper when can it be eaten, immediately he handed us a handful of ripe bananas without any extra money, Enjoyed the hospitality to the core then started entering the bylanes to reach NH 45 for onward towards Pudukottai.
After crossing Golden Rock kept watching to take the Pudukottai diversion, took the C ground road and entered pudukottai 2 lane road. As usual the ROB work is going on till now, no signs of progress.
Reached Lechumanapatti toll by 12:50 and decided to take a diversion to Sithannavasal cave.
Missed the turn at the power substation turn towards peruvayal sithanavasal, retracted and entered the road to sithanavasal, barren roads reached Sithannavasal by 1:20 pm. Two places they collect tickets an entry fee of 10 Rs, then again 45 Rs to see the caves.
It is a massive rock mass mountain, with only one cave open for public viewing other places are barricaded, not sure whether there exists other caves are not, considering the huge mountain, it is very much unlikely the jains carved only one cave to meditate. With all the scorching sun the insides of the cave had cooling effect.
The cave has an intricate painting on the roof and walls, many portions damaged, but major portions retained to enjoy the artisanship. The paint used centuries ago still stands the test of time, the security present over there helped to to decipher the paintings and explained the hidden beauty in the painting.
There were many Lotus flowers drawn, lotus was significant at that period it seems. My son jokingly commented right from jain period Lotus was trying to bloom in TN but has not made it till now, i enjoyed it.
Started from Sithannavasal by 2 pm the sun was scorching, there is no refreshment stall or kiosk, only a lone seller sells petty items.
Reached Pudukottai by 2.20 pm and searched for a good restaurant, which i know it is hard to find out, after much searching found one Akshaya restaurant and had lunch, food was ok but nothing to rave about. After lunch started 2.45 pm from Pudukottai to Aranthangi, first place to cross is Aranthangi, the Pudukottai to Aranthangi road is completely laid with speed breakers, not sure what huge traffic is plying on this stretch or what establishments villages exist that warrants these many speed breakers, surely put with a sadistic mindset.
After crossing innumerable speed breakers, reached Aranthangi, now comes the critical path,Aranthangi to Avudaiyarkoil, road is full of twists and turns will put a ghat road to shame, never seen a road in plains with so much curves turns and some are so sharp if taken at a reasonable speed will throw the vehicle out of the road.
Thrilling ride ended by 3.40 pm reaching the temple. Temple rajagopuram is under wraps for renovation, the temple was closed and it was to open at 4 pm. It opened by 4.15 pm we entered inside and was taken aback by the architecture what a carving made up in stone, the roof was outstanding, made a walk around the temple and couldn't locate the bullet holes on the thin roof.
One priest came and offered to guide us through the temple as the pooja will start by 5 Pm only.
He took us through the temple, first explained the navagrahas in the stone pillars, unlike in other temples the navagrahas are not assembled in one place by not facing each other, instead in each pillar the navagraha are so oriented according to their directions, which itself told this temple is a revolutionary temple built during that period.
Second the priest explained, this temple does not have a flagmast, no Nandi, no temple idol. The presiding deity is only a crown in the sanctum sanctorum named Athmanathar which means inner self.
God decided that no one shall be in between him and the devotee, so there are no obstructions.
Even though flagmast is not there, temple chariot exists. It is Manickavasagar who is taken in procession and not the god, so that signifies how God gives importance to the devotee.
Now coming to the intricate carvings. Rathi and his consort are made so real that the sugarcane bow is replete with cane leaves all made inexquisite carving. Rathi is made to appear real life like. The ornaments worn by statues are so stylish, and in fact there is a pillar which
has the carvings in various patterns that so many patterns are there it was told leading textile traders come here to get the patterns for the silk sarees.
Manickavasagar was the war lieutenant, who came here inspired by the preachings he turned to saint.
His statue as war lieutenant and as saint are carved in two pillars which shows the marked difference.
He came to purchase Horses for the king, but spend the money and built this temple, the god gave foxes to be taken and given to the king which assumed the shape of horses. That incident also carved.
Almost all the statues had the dress with crease lines carved beautifully, infact in the hand the nerves and palm rays were also shown so intricately, unless the scultor is wedded to his profession he would not have brought out these detail. Stunning presentation.
There is a statue of Shiva parvthi in nomad attire, the braided hair pleat are neatly chiselled out, parvathy carries a vanity bag that too nicely done. Talk of fashion that existed centuries ago
Now the famed roof tile, this roof tile is made of stone but i am not sure whether i am able to paraphrase it properly but it is marvel in stone. The sculptors now who work to build the new temples include a clause in the contract that Avudaiyar roof will be asked from them to be carved.
Like in a regular Manglore tiled roof how purlins, rafters run and on top the tiles are placed. Are you able to visualize it ? then so far so good. Now those purlins and rafters are made of stone, the purlins 3 in number running longitudinally, are they plain beams, No, there lies the artisanship like a TMT bars the stone purlins have twisted look, a square profile look and a hexagon profile look. With matching rafters meeting the purlins have a nail that also made up of stone and to top it with a wafer thin roof all carved in single stone and assembled. Great salute to the workmanship which i witnessed agape.
This was the initial trial at the outer mandapam, once that was completed they gained the expertise it seems, in the inner mandapams the purlins are more in number may be 6 and all have a different pattern, it is in the inside mandapam that gunshot tell tale signs are there where a British was not able to believe this is a stone carving, so shot it to test it.
Amazed? still the artisanship continues, the cornice of this famed roof at the ends when a light is lit forms a shadow on a wall, so what i understand your question, all cornice will form a shadow but only our Avudaiyarkoil cornices form a shadow pattern that of a bull. So much intrinsic work which needs to be highlighted and appreciated and enjoyed by all. Never knew who taught or gave those brilliant architectural ideas a real winner in his trade who also enjoyed it to the core.
One will be carried away by the beauty of the temple that it seems that the temple architecture at that period was beyond the boundaries of imagination, added to it there are no mountains in the nearby
vicinity nor proper roads to bring those rocks to the locations, all divine grace has made it to happen.
We circumambulated and reached the shrine, as told there is no presiding deity, no vibuthi or deepa arathanai given to the devotees, the main shrine has a golden crown and a large pedestal, in the pedestal during pooja timing cooked rice with bittergourd and greens is offered to the god in the pedestal.
Manickavasagar gets all the pooja and deepam.
Entirely satisfied and thoroughly enjoyed the Architecture marvel in this trip.
Started back to home from Avudaiyarkoil by 5.30 pm, again those twisty roads till Aranthangi then speed breaking journey till Pudukottai, at Pudukottai missed the turn which takes to the Trichy highway, so had to venture in to the town, cross a railway crossing, Brahadambal temple and later joined the Pudukottai Trichy Highway.
Continued the Journey 7.10 pm crossed samayapuram toll, fuel was filled at Manachanallur and a short break, proceeded and reached Ulundurpet by 9 pm to have dinner at karaikal chettinad hotel, at Ulundurpet there is a choice of restaurants but chose this one as last time we enjoy the food. But this time it was a let down by all standards.
The parotta was like cardboard, the side dish ordered were not tasty and biryani was on the lines of fried rice, no colour no flavour no aroma, then what else will be there, regretted for entering here.
Started 9.25 pm from Hotel and raced towards home, Vikravandi was crossed at 10:20 pm, 11 pm Athur toll and 11:30 pm paranur, fastag was not read at this toll so made a fr.ee entry. Reached Home by 11.50 Pm.
Total trip distance 813 Km, Toll paid 327rs, Journey hours 15 hours.
Do Visit the temple and experience the Grandeur.
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